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Handmade (in the USA) Wood Mugs and Tankards

During the Saxon era, the wooden tankard was the most common form of drinking vessel. Some of these tankards had a capacity of up to four pints. These large tankards were not for individuals, but they were designed to be shared. Despite being shared, the contents were usually speedily dispatched, encouraging riotous drunkenness. To help quell the drunkeness, King Edgar (who reigned from 959-975) introduced a decree stipulating that the wooden tankards were to be fitted with pins or pegs all the way down, with each interval denoting one person's measure. So, you drank the ale down to the next peg, and then handed it on. Drinking more than your share therefore entailed taking the next man down a peg or two. And, no, I don't have the pegs on my tankards so you can't be brought down a peg or two. On the other hand, you will not have the opportunity to bring anyone else down a peg or two either.

Large (24 ounce) Tankards

Large Walnut Wooden TankardLarge Oak Wooden TankardLarge Walnut and Maple Wooden TankardLarge Maple Wooden TankardLarge Walnut and Red Oak Wooden Tankard

 

One Pint (16 ounce) Tankards

One Pint Walnut Wooden TankardOne Pint Maple Wooden TankardOne Pint Walnut and Maple Wooden TankardOne Pint Red Oak Wooden TankardOne Pint Walnut and Red Oak Wooden Tankard

 

Half Pint (8 ounce) Tankards

Half Pint Walnut and Maple Wooden TankardHalf Pint Red Oak Wooden TankardHalf Pint Red Oak Wooden TankardHalf Pint Walnut Wooden TankardHalf Pint Walnut and Red Oak Wooden Tankard



The darkest wood is walnut, followed by oak and the lightest wood is maple. I also made combinations of Walnut and Maple and Walnut and Oak.

 

They may all mean the same thing to some people, but there really is a difference between a mug and a stein and a tankard. More information can be found

here.

I offer these tankards in three standard sizes.

Large
The large holds about 24 ounces or two 12 ounce beers.

One Pint
The one pint holds 16 ounces so it will easily hold a 12 ounce beer with a lot of head.

Half Pint
The half pint (8 ounce) size is for wine or mead drinkers or for children.

Guaranteed for life against leaks and/or breakage

I have extensive and detailed information on exactly how these are made. So if you are curious just go here.

These are guaranteed for life but there are a few things you should know. For more information on cautions and such look here.

If you are concerned or just curious about foodsafe finishes then you can go here to read more. For even more information you can go here.

To coordinate with these tankards I also offer handmade leather mugstraps and belts. A variety of sizes and styles are available, all handmade.

Some people like the looks of pewter tankards better than wood so I offer pewter tankards too.

They are all hand made by master craftsman who are members of 'The Worshipful Company of Pewterers'. This group was granted a charter in 1474 by King Edward IV for the legal manufacture of pewter throughout England. Many of the ancient pewter-smithing skills are still utilized today. Go here for more information.

We live in an extremely litigious society which makes it necessary that I say this. I will not be responsible for damage of any sort resulting from the use of these tankards.

WALNUT:


Walnuts are of the genus Juglans and are in the walnut family Juglandaceae. Walnut trees are deciduous which means they drop their leaves every Fall. They grow from about 30 feet to about 120 feet tall.

The 21 species in the genus for the Walnut tree exist natively in all of the countries known as the 'Old World'. These are the countries known to the Europeans before the voyages of Columbus. The Old World includes Europe, Asia and Africa.

Persian Walnuts and Black Walnuts are used for their attractive grain and strength. The mature trees are hard, dense and have a tight grained pattern. This tight grained pattern allows walnut to be polished to a very high luster and a very smooth finish.

Walnut colors vary from a light white to a very dark (almost chocolate) color. When walnut is kiln dried (like we use in the USA) the color goes towards a dull brown. But this dull brown can fool you, once a finish of any type is applied, the color of walnut comes back to life and is very attractive.

You will sometimes see walnut used for expensive bowls too. (Back to top)

Large 24 ounce Walnut Tankard

Large Walnut Wooden Tankard

Large (24 ounce), Walnut tankard. Holds about two full bottles of beer (or whatever else you want to drink 24 ounces of). If you feel the need to "man up", then this is what you want. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 3/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$45.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

One Pint (16 ounce) Walnut Tankard

One Pint Walnut Wooden Tankard

One Pint (16 ounce) Walnut Tankard. Easily holds a 12 ounce beer including a lot of head. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 1/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$39.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

 

Half Pint (8 ounce) Walnut Tankard

Half Pint Walnut Wooden Tankard

Half pint (8 ounce) Walnut tankard. Actually holds about 9 ounces but I still call it a half pint. Approximately 5" tall and 2 7/8" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$33.00 plus $4.95 shipping

 

OAK:


Oaks are a very common species and come from genus 'Quercus'. They exist, and have always existed primarily in the Northern hemispheres and can be either deciduous or evergreen. They exist as native tress from Asia to the Americas.

Oaks are a very hardwood and are used for a lot of furniture and flooring. Some European and American oaks are used to make the barrels to age wine and other fine spirits. Sometimes these barrels are charred to lend a unique character, taste and color to the spirits.

Of all of the North American oaks, the Northern Red Oak is the most prized of the oak group. All Northern Red Oaks are sold as simply 'red oak' regardless of where it originated.

Due to the strength of oak it is commonly used as a symbol for strength and endurance. The Oak was chosen as the national tree for the United States, England, Germany and France.

The oak was used to symbolize Zeus (from classical mythology) and was considered Zeus sacred tree.

Of course we have all heard the expression, "Mighty oaks from tiny acorns grow". (Back to top)

 

Large (24 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Red Oak

Large Oak Wooden Tankard

Large (24 ounce), Red Oak tankard. Holds about two full bottles of beer (or whatever else you want to drink 24 ounces of). If you feel the need to "man up", then this is what you want. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 3/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)

$45.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

One Pint Wood Tankard, made from Red Oak

One Pint Oak Wooden Tankard

One Pint (16 ounce) Red Oak Tankard. Easily holds a 12 ounce beer including a lot of head. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 1/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$39.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

Half Pint (8 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Red Oak

Half Pint Oak Wooden Tankard

Half pint (8 ounce) Red Oak tankard. Actually holds about 9 ounces but I still call it a half pint. Approximately 5" tall and 2 7/8" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$33.00 plus $4.95 shipping

 

MAPLE:

Maples are trees of the genus 'Acer'.

Maples are cultivated for syrup and timber. Some maples have bright leaf coloring during their Fall change. The Sugar Maple is used for its sap which is then turned into the ever popular maple syrup.

Quebec produces more maple sugar products than any other place in the world. This sugar maple, (sometime referred to as hard maple) is also used to make things like bowling pins, the lanes in bowling alleys are made of maple. Drums and butcher blocks are commonly made from maple too. Even baseball bats are sometimes made from maple (although these are more commonly made from hickory or ash).

The grain on maple is very close grained. It does not have the distinctive grain patterns like other woods. It is so close grained that some modern finishes have a hard time penetrating the wood, so even finished maple doesn't carry a lot of natural color.

Soft maple is from the genus 'Acer Rubrum'. It exhibits almost all of the same characteristics as hard maple but is easier to turn on a lathe and takes stains and finishes easier than it's cousin hard maple.

Canada uses the maple leaf on their national flag and as their national symbol. (Back to top)

 

Large (24 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Maple

Large Maple Wooden Tankard

Large (24 ounce), Maple tankard. Holds about two full bottles of beer (or whatever else you want to drink 24 ounces of). If you feel the need to "man up", then this is what you want. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 3/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)

$45.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

One Pint Wood Tankard, made from Maple

One Pint Maple Wooden Tankard

One Pint (16 ounce) Maple Tankard. Easily holds a 12 ounce beer including a lot of head. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 1/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$39.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

Half Pint (8 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Maple

Half Pint Maple Wooden Tankard

Half pint (8 ounce) Maple tankard. Actually holds about 9 ounces but I still call it a half pint. Approximately 5" tall and 2 7/8" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$33.00 plus $4.95 shipping

 

WALNUT AND MAPLE:

Large (24 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Alternating Rings of Walnut and Maple

Walnut and Maple Wooden Tankard

Large (24 ounce), Walnut and Maple tankard. Holds about two full bottles of beer (or whatever else you want to drink 24 ounces of). If you feel the need to "man up", then this is what you want. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 3/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)

$45.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

One Pint Wood Tankard, made from Alternating Rings of Walnut and Maple

One Pint Walnut and Maple Wooden Tankard

One Pint (16 ounce) Walnut and Maple Tankard. Easily holds a 12 ounce beer including a lot of head. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 1/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$39.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

Half Pint (8 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Walnut and Maple

Half Pint Walnut and Maple Wooden Tankard

Half pint (8 ounce) Walnut and Maple tankard. Actually holds about 9 ounces but I still call it a half pint. Approximately 5" tall and 2 7/8" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$33.00 plus $4.95 shipping

 

WALNUT AND OAK:

Large (24 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Walnut and Red Oak

Large Walnut and Red Oak Wooden Tankard

Large (24 ounce), Walnut and Red Oak tankard. Holds about two full bottles of beer (or whatever else you want to drink 24 ounces of). If you feel the need to "man up", then this is what you want. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 3/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)

$45.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

One Pint Wood Tankard, made from Walnut and Red Oak

One Pint Walnut and Red Oak Wooden Tankard

One Pint (16 ounce) Walnut and Red Oak Tankard. Easily holds a 12 ounce beer including a lot of head. Approximately 5 3/4" tall and 3 1/4" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$39.00 plus $5.95 shipping

 

Half Pint (8 ounce) Wood Tankard, made from Walnut and Red Oak

Half Pint Walnut and Red Oak Wooden Tankard

Half pint (8 ounce) Walnut and Red Oak tankard. Actually holds about 9 ounces but I still call it a half pint. Approximately 5" tall and 2 7/8" across. Lifetime guarantee. (Don't forget the mugstrap)


$33.00 plus $4.95 shipping

 

 

What's the difference between a stein, a mug and a tankard?

The word stein is a shortened form of Steinzeugkrug, which is German for stoneware jug or tankard. In the U.S., stein has come to mean just about any beer container — regardless of its material or size — that has a hinged lid and a handle. Tankard would be more technically correct than stein, but these two words are used interchangeably. But some people reserve the word tankard for the all-pewter (there's a section for pewter vessels too) or all-silver varieties of steins.

A mug is universally used as the name for those vessels that have handles but doesn't, and never did, have a lid. So these should probably be considered mugs and/or tankards, but not steins.

How about the difference between a goblet and a chalice? Both are bowl shaped vessels with a foot or pedestal and no handle, but a chalice is generally considered the vessel used in religious ceremonies.

I offer four different styles and two different sizes of these wood mugs and tankards.

They are all hand made and I buy the lumber straight from the mill. By hand picking each board at the mill I end up with higher quality lumber. When possible, I use the same board to make the entire tankard body. This results in a much closer grain pattern (as seen in the pictures) without the wild (and sometimes pretty ugly) variations you sometimes see in wood mugs.

The darkest wood is walnut, followed by oak and the lightest wood is maple. When available, I use soft maple because the soft maple takes on a slight "golden" hue when the finish is applied. <Back to top>

 

SIZES:
Due to the varying thickness of the rings on these tankards, the size (height) will vary some. When I plane the rough sawn lumber I get from the mill, I only plane the boards to remove any imperfections. What I mean by this is that I do not plane them to a certain thickness. I plane them for looks and not size. A 1/16" variance can result in almost a half inch difference in the overall height (7 rings at 1/16" each). I set, as a minimum, the one pint to hold at least 16 oz. and the half pint to hold at least 8 ounces. But, the tankards you receive may hold slightly more than that as a result of the thickness variance.

I really don't see the need to destroy perfectly good wood just to get the sizes to be exactly the same from tankard to tankard. These are hand made so expect each tankard to have a little different 'personality' than it's brethren.


Large Size:
After numerous requests from customers, I added a new larger size tankard. This size will easily hold about two 12 oz. beers (or two of whatever else you drink that comes in 12 ounce sizes). The appearance is a little deceptive because it really doesn't look that much bigger than the one pint size but in reality it holds nearly twice as much.

This tankard is decidedly "manly". So if you feel the need to "man up", then this is the one for you. It's closer to a quart than a pint, which is more in line with the sizes in use during the Renaissance era. <Back to top>


One pint size:
Personally, I drink beer and know that when I buy beer at some of the faires, the "serving wenches" can get pretty busy and they don't take a lot of time pouring the beer. Hey, I paid for it and I don't like to see it foaming over the edge of my tankard. Theoretically a 12 ounce mug would work if they could take their time.... but they can't. So if you are a beer drinker then I recommend the 1 pint tankard/mug. It will give you enough room for a lot of 'head' on the beer without foaming over the edges. Plus you can walk and talk without spilling your beer and you won't have to slurp the foam off before you leave the bar.

The one pint tankard actually holds about 17 ounces (thank you excel spreadsheet), but that is to the very top of the rim. I know you're curious so I'll tell you... an ounce of liquid is 1.804 cubic inches. Bottom line is that the one pint tankard comfortably holds 16 ounces. <Back to top>

Half Pint size:
Now for the more refined people (I'm not included in this group) who drink wine, I recommend the smaller half pint (8 ounces) size tankard. It holds about 9 ounces. So you can walk along without spilling the wine.

For the really stout of heart, they serve mead at some of the faires too. Mead is much stronger than a normal beer so the half pint mug/tankard will work out great for mead too. So you can walk without spilling the mead. If you drink much mead then you know why this is important.

Oh yeah, you can also use the smaller half pint size for a kids mug or tankard for their water of juice. So if the kids want to be like Mom or Dad, then these are great. <Back to top>

Other Sizes and Styles:
I can make these tankards in just about any size and from just about any wood. If you have a desire for something larger, smaller, or with a different wood or combination of woods, just let me know. I will get back to you with the price and lead time.

How the tankards and mugs are made:
Each tankard is cut from a single board when possible. Keep in mind that all trees do not necessarily cooperate when it comes to this. Each tankard/mug has three coats of exterior finish on it, so the finish should last a lifetime. Now for those of you concerned about 'foodsafe' finishes, to put your mind at ease you can go here to read all about modern foodsafe finishes. I use a minimum of two coats of two part epoxy for the interior coating to keep the vessel 'leak proof'. When the interior finish has cured, it sets up kinda like the exterior of the old fiberglass corvettes. Which to those of you who are not Corvette buffs, it means it sets up really hard with very good "tack strength". That's why I can guarantee them to never leak. Again, if you are curious, or worried about the finish used on these tankards, then by all means read this. I also have the Material Data Safety sheet for both parts of the two part epoxy. The resin is here and the hardener is here. If you are the least bit paranoid or worried about the finish, just put a note in the comments section when you order requesting a 'food safe' finish. I will then put a minimum of 2 coats of a FDA food safe finish on the interior of the tankard. You should know that it will take an extra 3 days to add the food safe interior coatings. You can read the Material Data Safety Sheet on the food safe interior coating here. Personally I don't use the food safe finish on the tankards I use but my wife has pointed out that "not everyone is like you". Personally I think it would be a much better world if that wasn't the case.... but I digress.

I cut each ring separately on my lathe. After the rings are cut, I sand them flat. Then comes the semi-artistic part of the process. I set each ring so that it sits with the growth rings going the opposite direction (vertically) of the ring below it. I then set each ring offset by 90 degrees with the ring below it. This combination of vertically opposite and 90 degree offset creates a pattern similar to a herringbone (my wife's term, not mine) pattern. An interesting thing about this combination is that as you rotate the mug, the light rings turn darker and the dark rings turn lighter every 90 degrees. The changing from dark to light is because the wood is going from end grain to face grain every 90 degrees. It takes more time to set the rings this way but the effect is pretty cool.

The rings are then glued and clamped together without the bottom on the tankard. Once dry, this gives me unhindered access to the inside of the tankard so I can sand the interior and be sure the edges of the rings are sanded smooth with the other rings, using a spindle sander.

Then I glue the bottom of the tankard to the rings to complete the rough tankard.

At this point I put the entire assembly back on the lathe to finish smoothing the exterior. Sometimes I have to use a roughing gouge, sometimes a bowl gouge but most of the time I only use sandpaper because I use a lot of care in the assembly of the rings. I sand the exterior of the tankard and make sure the top lip is made thinner (my wife's request). The sides start out at about 5/16" thick and end up somewhere around a quarter of an inch thick. This thickness makes for a much stronger tankard and gives the glue a lot more surface area to adhere to. The exception to this is the large sized tankards. I actually make the walls of this size thinner because visually it makes a better looking tankard (of course that's just my opinion, but I'm the one who makes them). The sides on the large tankard are about 1/8" thick, more or less.

At this stage I apply a minimum of two coats of two part epoxy finish to the interior of the tankards over the course of two days. If the interior shows any spots that are not glossy after two coats, then I apply a third coat which takes another day. I use foam brushes to apply the epoxy to help eliminate any brush marks.

I then cut the handle using a bandsaw and sand it smooth with a spindle sander and a belt sander. I freehand cut the handles (which means I don't attempt to cut each handle exactly like the others) then I use the spindle sander to knock off the handles sharp edges. This gives the handle a more rustic look. If you look at the pictures you will see that the handle color always looks a little different than the tankard/mug body. The reason for this is that you are looking at the 'face grain' on the side of the handle and you are seeing some of the 'end grain' of the wood on the tankard/mug body.

The handle is then placed against a homemade sanding disk made of wood that is the same diameter as the tankard and covered with sandpaper. By holding the handle against this disk (attached to my drill press) it makes the curvature in the handle where it meets the tankard body closely match the curvature of the tankard. Again, this makes for a much stronger joint since the surface areas between the tankard body and handle match so closely. The handle is then glued/epoxied and clamped to the body. After removing the clamps if I see any hairline openings between the tankard body and the handle, I fill it with CA glue (Superglue) just for a little extra strength.

The type of glue I use to hold the actual rings together is a heavy duty, weatherproof, waterproof, exterior glue. I figure if this glue is designed to hold things together that are left outside in the weather then there's probably not much you can do to damage the tankards.

The last step before applying the exterior finish is to close the hole in the bottom of the tankard that was used to hold it to the lathe. Note that not all tankards require this step. Some times when I'm feeling ambitious, I use my circle cutting jig on my bandsaw to cut the bottom ring for the vessels. When I do that, there is no hole to plug. To plug the holes, I use either half inch dowel rods or hole plugs. If I use dowels, I glue the dowel into the hole making sure it is flush with the top and bottom of the bottom disk. If I use plugs, then I have to put one plug on the top (interior) and one plug on the bottom. I really haven't decided if one way is better than the other. The hole plugs show 'face grain' which more closely matches the bottom ring grain and is more attractive in my opinion, but I the dowels have more surface area for the glue to adhere to. So bottom line is that your tankard may come with a plug or an dowel or nothing at all. The majority of the time I tend to use plugs because, overall, I think they just look better and are less noticeable.

If the tankard is made of maple, I sometimes leave small knots in the tankards for a little extra character. The knots are really dark and show up nicely against the really light maple. If I have left any knots in, then I cover them with CA glue to be sure they remain tight during the finishing process.

If I'm going to be applying the exterior finish to the tankards the following day I use an air compressor to blow off the tankard, inside and out.

Now it 's time for finishing. I only apply finishes first thing in the morning. This is because the shop has had all night for all the minute dust particles to settle. Which means a better finish with fewer dust mote.

I use a 'tack cloth' to remove any remaining dust the may still be attached to the unfinished exterior.

For the exterior, I use a minimum of three coats of finish and apply them with a foam brush. After each coat has dried, I lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper to remove any dust nibs that have attached and then apply another coat of finish. After this coat has dried for 24 hours, I do the same thing over again. I use a minimum of three exterior coats, sometimes more. If after three coats, there are any spots that aren't showing high gloss, it's because that part of the wood has soaked up a lot more of the finish (most likely the end grain portion of the wood) . If that happens, I add additional finish coats until all spots are glossy.

Once the interior and exterior is finished then I have to put a coat of epoxy on the bottom of the tankards to keep them from absorbing any moisture they may come in contact with while sitting on a wet table. I apply the finish to the bottom and then wait 24 hours for it to set.

The last step. Once the last coat is dry and has set for 24 hours, I fill the tankard/mug with water and let it stand for at least 24 hours. After 24 hours with no leaks, it's time to dry it and put it up for sale. This step is for my peace of mind. I have never had a tankard leak and I have never been told of any tankard that has leaked.

The finishing process alone, takes seven days. First interior coat, wait 24 hours. Second interior coat, wait 24 hours. Attach handle to tankard, wait 24 hours. Apply first exterior coat, wait 24 hours. Apply second exterior coat, wait 24 hours. Apply third exterior coat if necessary, wait 24 hours. Apply coating to bottom, wait 24 hours. This seven days does not take into account the actual cutting and gluing time either. All told it takes about 9 days to make a tankard from start to finish. Please keep this in mind if you want me to make you 'something special'. You can't rush mother nature (or two part epoxy).

These mugs and tankards should last a lifetime (see the guarantee section), but there are a few caveats that should be adhered to. Common sense is closer than caveat, but I kinda like the sound of caveat, (I hate admitting I like anything French).

On a side note, if you like drinking beer from wooden tankards then you might like the idea of homebrew beer too. That site is one of my others and I tried to pretty much put everything you want to know about how to make your own beer there. Back to top

CAVEATS:
First, these are for cold beverages only. They are not designed for hot beverages. The reason is that hot beverages cause the wood to swell as it is heated and then it contracts when it cools. Over time, this expansion and contraction weakens the joints. You don't want a hot tankard of whatever your drinking to end up in you lap or on your expensive renfaire garb so use these for cold beverages only.

OK I'll answer the burning question, if hot beverages cause expansion and contraction and weaken the joints then why don't cold beverages do the same thing? Good question. (Donning my professorial hat now) Let's say your hot beverages start out at a piping hot 190 degrees and your cold beverages start out at a chilly 40 degrees. Now we have to assume that the environment you live in (and the tankard lives in) is around 80 degrees. So the cold beverage has a 40 degree difference and the hot beverage has a 110 degree difference. So the hot beverage will 'stress the joint' almost three times (2.75 actually) more than the cold beverage. (Removing my professorial hat now). Actually when I use mine for beer, the cold doesn't stay in my tankard very long at all so by quickly drinking my beer I'm actually reducing the stress on my tankard. Bonus.

Do not place these tankards in the freezer. They are not 'freezer mugs'. For the reason for this, read the preceding paragraph.

Next, these are not dishwasher safe. This goes hand in hand with the above paragraph. If you put one of these in the dishwasher and it goes through the heated dry cycle, you will end up with a nice variety of wooden rings (possible new use as very large napkin rings) .... but you will no longer have a tankard.

If you use the tankards/mugs for red wine then the red wine should not be allowed to 'stand' in the container. The manufacturer of the interior finish says that red wine can stain the epoxy so it should be cleaned immediately after use.

Okay, it should go without saying that if these are designed for cold beverages, then they shouldn't be put in a microwave either. So unless you have some magical microwave that actually cools your beverages (I actually use a refrigerator for this) then do not put these in a microwave.

Do not use the mug or tankard if the interior finish ever chips or cracks because this will allow the liquid to penetrate to the wood. If this happens, the wood will swell and cause the ring to separate (to my knowledge, this has never happened but I feel I should mention it anyway). Return it to me and I'll fix it but you have to pay the freight.

To clean, use warm (not hot) water, mild soap (no abrasives) and a sponge. Do not immerse the mug or tankard in water.

If the tankard gets scratched and it bothers you, you can use paste wax to remove (hide) small scratches (on the exterior only), just don't apply it to the inside or top edge (even though I have never personally tasted paste wax, my natural instinct tells me paste wax would not be tasty). Back to top

DISCLAIMER:
We live in an extremely litigious society which makes it necessary that I say this. I will not be responsible for damage of any sort resulting from the use of these tankards.

 

GUARANTEE:
If you should ever drop one of these tankards and the handle comes off (not likely) you can return the tankard and the handle to me for repair or replacement, at my choice. It's free but you have to pay the shipping. Or you can contact me and I'll tell you how to do a home repair. A home repair won't be as strong, but after you drop it and break it, you will naturally be more careful in the future.... right?

If the mug or tankard ever leaks, you can return it to me for a no charge repair or replacement, again, my choice. The likelihood of a leak is remote (I do not know of a single tankard that has ever leaked), but if you are one of those, yeah but "what if" kind of people, then put your mind at ease.

Keep in mind that the pictures are of actual tankards and mugs but each tree is different (kinda like people), so each mug is different too. The pictures are close, but mother nature makes things interesting.

If after all of this, I still have not answered your question, then by all means contact me. I try to answer all questions within 24 hours but sometimes life gets in the way. Back to top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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